Wishing for Winter

From ice roads and impressive icicles to frozen parks and fireside stays, we’ve rounded up cool reasons to layer up and the hottest places to warm up all winter long.

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Some call it stay-in season, but in Minnesota, the snow is just another way to enjoy our landscapes. From ice roads and impressive icicles to frozen parks and fireside stays, we’ve rounded up cool reasons to layer up and the hottest places to warm up all winter long.

[LAYER UP]

MINNESOTA (N)ICE

Skate, participate, and spectate your way through the state.

SKATE

+ What Warroad lacks in size, it makes up for in bragging rights: It’s produced a host of Olympic, NHL, and college hockey players over the years. And at the height of lockdown, it also became home to America’s longest ice-skating trail: the 5.2-mile-long Riverbend Skate Path, a community effort that connected neighbors (and their river rinks). Since then, it’s drawn hundreds of skaters, curlers, and sledders. riverbendskatepath.com

+ Our frozen lakes get all the glory, but our rivers have plenty of room for all those figure eights you’re looking to cut. Take the frozen Straight River in Owatonna, a 55-mile-long Cannon River tributary that flows out through farmland. If you’re skate-less, the Warsinski Chalet at Morehouse Park has you covered.

PRO TIP: The park hosts family bonfires on Saturday nights starting at 5:30 pm.

+ Another by-product of the pandemic: backyard rink pop-ups. People got crafty and restless, moving some to pour thou- sands of gallons of water on their frozen grounds. The Hammitt backyard rink in Bemidji predates the pandemic—the OG of backyard rinks, if you will—with its 120-by-65-foot oval, flanked by towering pines. It belongs to high school teacher Bryan Hammitt, who’s opened his rink up for the past 20 years.

SPECTATE

+ Classic car shows—pfft. At the annual Waseca Vintage Snowmobile Ice Drags, see cool buggies in action on the ice. Feb. 25. wasecavintageicedrags.com

+ The largest charitable ice fishing contest on earth (their words), Brainerd Jaycees Ice Fishing Extravaganza is worth the car time. The competition raises more than $150,000 annually for local charities. Jan. 28. Gull Lake, icefishing.org

+ Forget ice skating—this is ice scaling. One of only three ice climbing farms in the country, the annual Sandstone Ice Festival ushers in the vortex during the first weekend in January. Watch ice climbers strap on their crampons and come to grips with the old quarry walls in Robinson Park. For those interested in getting vertical, climbing clinics are offered during the fest. sandstoneicefest.com

PARTICIPATE

+ Throughout the 10-day spectacle, you’ll find a series of workshops at The Great Northern Festival, where staffers from The Point Retreats (located in Pequot Lakes) will guide guests through heat-cold exposure therapy. Stokeyard will provide nearby sauna tents for a post-plunge warm-up. Participants experience how breath work and extreme-temp exposure can create mental clarity, and—goes without saying—a greater appreciation for the Minnesota cold! Jan. 25–Feb. 5. Mpls. and St. Paul, thegreatnorthernfestival.com

+ What’s cooler than being cool? “Ice cold!” exclaims Rochester, ushering in its fifteenth year of Social-ICE, a yearly winter tradition for those who enjoy winter like we prefer our drinks: on ice. This year’s themes are still under wraps, but expect a handful of decked-out ice bars, craft cocktails with pizzazz, plenty of pop culture riffs, frosted neon lights, large-scale ice sculptures aplenty, and a soundtrack from an extensive DJ lineup. Dates TBD at press time. downtownrochestermn.com

+ Minnesotans are conditioned for the wait, and spearfishing is no exception. Spearers swear that the thrill of seeing the Big One swim up is akin to encountering a whitetail in the woods. South Long Lake, near Brainerd, is usually prime for spearing conditions thanks to its shallowness and healthy supply of northern pike. The DNR has a handy LakeFinder tool where you can check underwater conditions. dnr.state.mn.us

DRILL A HOLE, DROP A LINE

An angler’s list of lakes to fish this winter.

  • Blackduck Lake, Beltrami County [walleye]
  • Echo Lake, Lake County [lake trout and rainbow trout]
  • Lake of the Woods, Lake of the Woods County [walleye and muskie]
  • Lake Phalen, Ramsey County [walleye, crappie, and sunfish]
  • Leech Lake, Cass County [walleye and muskie]
  • Mille Lacs Lake, Mille Lacs, Aitkin, and Crow Wing Counties [walleye, muskie, northern pike, smallmouth bass]
  • Upper Red Lake, Beltrami County [walleye and northern pike]
  • White Pine Lake, Cook County [northern pike, walleye, and yellow perch]

CURL UP? MORE LIKE CROKICURL UP!

Croki-what?! If you haven’t heard of crokicurl, don’t fret: The Canadian ice sport has recently gained traction across the Midwest. And last winter, Maple Grove introduced the first crokicurl rink in the Land of 10,000 Lakes. The annual U.S. Crokicurl Championships are held in nearby Altoona, Wisconsin, where it was first introduced in 2021. Crokicurl—which originated in Winnipeg—combines the Olympic sport curling with the Canadian board game crokinole, in which players flick small chips toward the center of an octagonal wooden board.

Like in curling, each crokicurl team, comprising one or more players, aims to get its curling rock to the center circle. But the opposing team’s goal is to knock your rock out of the way (!!). If your rock makes it to the middle, your team gets 20 points; the goal is to accumulate the most points. Try your hand at the crokicurl rink at Central Park of Maple Grove, where there’s also an ice loop each year beginning in December (depending on weather, of course). maplegrovemn.gov, 763-494-6500

BETTER IN WINTER?

Sights and scenes around the state that shine a little brighter after the freeze.

[VOYAGEURS NATIONAL PARK]

At 40 percent water, Minnesota’s only national park is enjoyed by boat in the sum- mer, but is arguably more accessible after the freeze. The 7-mile Rainy Lake Ice Road allows access for ice fishing—plus snow- shoeing and cross-country skiing, which you can do on island trails or on the lakes themselves. Free rentals are available at the Rainy Lake Visitor Center—the park’s only open visitor center in cold months. International Falls, nps.gov, 218-283-6600

Park in the Dark: As a certified International Dark Sky Park, Voyageurs is one of the best places in Minnesota to view the Northern Lights. Optimal conditions are cold, clear nights in December, the darkest month of the year.

[GRAND PORTAGE STATE PARK]

The tallest (mostly) in the state, the High Falls of the Pigeon River, which is shared with Canada, plummet 120 feet. View the frozen cascade on snowshoes on the half-mile High Falls Trail (for beginners) or the rugged 4.5-mile-round-trip Middle Falls Trail (for advanced snowshoers only). Daily snowshoe rentals are available. Grand Portage, dnr.state.mn.us, 218-877-8630

[TETTEGOUCHE STATE PARK]

While ice castles and mazes are staples of winter recreation in the Bold North, Mother Nature puts on her own awe-inspiring show at Tettegouche, a photographer’s paradise with trees caked in dripping ice and a woven patchwork of icicles. While these catawampus forms generally appear after storms, especially at Shovel Point and Palisade Head, the park’s four waterfalls are sculpturally frozen throughout the season. Silver Bay, dnr.state.mn.us, 218- 353-8800

[GREAT RIVER BLUFFS STATE PARK]

Get a tippy-toes view of the vast wrinkles of Great River Bluffs State Park’s landscape, folding into the Mississippi. Most of the park’s 6.3 miles of snowshoe trails are easy peasy—great for kiddos to find their snow legs. Three miles of intermediate cross-country ski trails weave along the bluffs and through hardwood forests, where you can get up close with riverscapes that aren’t as visible in summer. Winona, dnr.state.mn.us, 507-312-2650

[SPLIT ROCK LIGHTHOUSE STATE PARK]

While you know the iconic lighthouse landmark, the surrounding park transforms into a fat-tire biker’s paradise in winter: 8.2 miles of groomed trails for biking and snowshoeing through frigid North Shore terrain include rocky, technical trails and smooth roads. And nearby Spokengear rents fat-tire bikes. Two Harbors, dnr.state.mn.us, 218-595- 7625; spokengear.com, 218-834-2117

[UPPER SIOUX AGENCY STATE PARK]

Has sledding ever been kids-only? Upper Sioux Agency State Park has one of the best sledding hills in southern Minny: a challenging slope near the entrance, ideal for brave teen and adult saucer-ers. Granite Falls, dnr.state.mn.us, 320-564-4777

COLD-WEATHER CAMPING HOT SPOTS

So, you’ve tackled summer camping—or the mosquitoes, syrupy humidity, and crowds have kept you away. Let us introduce you to your new BFF, winter camping: no bugs, no sweat creeping down your neck, and peaceful silence induced by a blanket of snow.

While winter might be the nature-averse’s answer to camping, it does come with its fair share of challenges: Freezing temps increase the risks of hypothermia and frostbite, and many campsites don’t have access to running water or electricity in the off-season.

All 58 Minnesota state forests offer dispersed camping—tent camping outside designated campsites—and several state parks offer winter camping at designated sites.

Some fan favorites include Frontenac, Myre-Big Island, Wild River, Itasca, and Tettegouche. Frontenac, 651-299-3000; Albert Lea, 507-668-7060; Center City, 651-583-2125; Park Rapids, 218-699-7251; Silver Bay, 218-353-8800, dnr.state.mn.us

Many state parks have...amenities, shall we call them? Here are a few to consider when planning your winter camping trips:

+ POWER: Several state parks offer 30- and 50-amp hookups.

+ WATER: Check ahead to find which parks have drinking water and showers (trust us).

+ WARMTH: Firewood is offered at most state parks in Minnesota.

Find more winter camping destinations at mndnr.gov/parkfinder.

NO TENT? NO PROBLEM.

True North Basecamp—near fat-tire lovers’ favorite winter destination Cuyuna Country State Recreation Area—has six heated lakefront cabins. Inspired by buildings of the talconite mining era of the early 1900s with corrugated steel and exposed wood beams, cabins have 21st-century amenities like Wi-Fi and USB charging. No pitching poles required. Crosby, truenorthbasecamp.com, 218-833-2267

WHAT TO WATCH THIS WINTER

Too cold to play? Cozy up with hot cocoa and see snowmobile races, pond hockey, dogsled races, and curling champs.

While the inaugural Lake Minnetonka Klondike Dog Derby took place in February 2020, dogsledding has raced through Excelsior since the 1930s. Teams of huskies (oh fer cute!) are giving paw-tographs. Feb. 3–4. Excelsior, klondikedogderby.com

Tuck earplugs under your earmuffs for the Cor PowerSports I-500. Initially a three-day venture from Winnipeg to St. Paul, the snowmobile race now tackles 500 miles of terrain in two days. Feb. 11–12. Goodridge, corpowersports.com, 651-387-5880

Proximity to Canada means niche northerly sports have meandered across the border. Will there be poutine at the Minnesota Curling Association Mixed State Championships? Better show up to find out. Dates TBD at press time. mncurling.org

Remember church broomball leagues? Well, they’ve gotten serious. See for yourself at the All Elite Broomball Minnesota State Championships. March 24–26. Mpls., aebroomball.com

None of this indoor hockey nonsense. The U.S. Pond Hockey Championships celebrate the sport’s outdoor origins. The champs’ names are etched into a golden shovel—take that, snowbanks! Jan. 19–29. Mpls., uspondhockey.com, 612-355-9251

[WARM UP]

WHERE'S THE FIRE?

When the weather outside turns frightful, seasoned Northerners know that next to a fire is a good place to be. Cozy up by the crackle at these cabins, hotels, Airbnbs, and igloos after a long day of Minnesnowta-ing.

[BROOK PARK]

This minimalist A-frame is tucked into five acres of woodsy property with an electric sauna off the deck. Stylle Hytte—Norwegian for“quiet cabin”—has a wood-burning fireplace on the main floor of the cabin and a cozy loft with a queen bed. The front is entirely windows, giving all the winter vibes without any of the frosty bite. thehavens.co

[BATTLE LAKE]

The Lake House at The Hideaway at Xanadu Island answers the call for fireside accommodations: three fieldstone fireplaces throughout the 100-year-old cabin. Part of an all-inclusive five-acre island resort, the cabin has exposed beams, French doors, slatted ceilings, and a spiral staircase. hideawayatxanadu.com, 218-864-8096

[CROSBY]

We’re suckers for an A-frame, and Hilhaus has the Insta-worthy charm we’re craving: open shelving in the kitchen, huge windows, and a hanging chair alongside the wood-paneled gas fireplace. Firewood for the backyard firepit is included. Instagram @hilhausaframe

[TOFTE]

Newly opened, Klarhet (Swedish and Norwegian for “clarity”) posted four clear domes on 25 acres of regenerative food forest—a wild “garden” of edible shrubs, fruit trees, vegetables, herbs, and animals. The plan is to offer culinary tastings from the edible forest. Currently, Klarhet offers snowshoes for use throughout the land, farm tours, and firewood for outdoor bonfires. To heighten your hygge, each pared-down dome includes a wood stove, robes, slippers, yoga mats, and incredible nature views. liveklarhet.com

The Superior shores along Bluefin Bay’s family of resorts morph into dripping ice formations in the winter. Stave off the chill at the beach firepit. Bonfires are lit upon request in the winter, and s’mores kits are available via guest services. bluefinbay.com, 218-663-7296

[GRAND MARAIS]

Started in 1927 as an exclusive club development, Naniboujou Lodge and Restaurant attracted national big names like Babe Ruth and Jack Dempsey. A large dining room was the core of the enclave, with arched ceilings to resemble a canoe and Cree Indian designs painted in bright colors. The 20-some-foot-tall fireplace is the centerpiece of the dining room and remains the tallest stone fireplace in the state, constructed out of 200 tons of local rock. Now restored, the lodge is open daily May through October. Don’t despair, winter wanderers! Full weekend bookings are available in February and March and include meals at the restaurant. naniboujou.com, 218-387-2688

The original lodge and outfitter on the Gunflint Trail, Clearwater Historic Lodge has ample cabins, bunks, and B&B rooms. The lodge, on the shores of the Boundary Waters’ Clearwater Lake, has a stone fireplace that wants you to read a book and sip hot cocoa near it. The lake is a destination for trout ice fishing. Snow-savvy friends can snowshoe and cross-country ski to our northerly neighbors via the Border Route. clearwaterhistoriclodge.com, 218-388-2254

[RANIER]

Sip your Irish cream coffee fireside at Cantilever Hotel’s ground-floor restaurant. Be thankful the bar-side garage door windows aren’t open in the winter (we ain’t that crazy!). Soak in frosted-over views of Rainy Lake from the rooftop hot tub and sauna, which are open in the winter to ignite your inner fire. cantileverdistillery.com, 218-540-1932

[FARMINGTON]

The Whitetail Woods Camper Cabins are five modern tiny home–esque boxes, elevated above the forest and prairie floors with broad windows and expansive decks. Each cabin is around 200 square feet and has a fire ring—because true ’Sotans bonfire in winter. Psst, bring your sleighs, ’cause Whitetail Woods also has a sledding hill. co.dakota.mn.us, 952-891-7000

[STILLWATER]

Mother Nature can’t stop a little rooftop action: Hotel Crosby has a hot tub and firepit on its river-facing rooftop. Ditch swimsuit for sweater at the lobby restaurant and bar with a fireplace. hotelcrosby.com, 651-967-7100

Lora is a modern boutique spot with river views and an Insta-dream black and white coffee shop in the lobby. And just when we though hitting snooze couldn’t get any cozier: Her Premium King rooms have fireplaces. lorahotel.com, 651-571-3500

Fire It Up: OK, not a fire, but there’s a fire truck in the taproom at Brau Brothers Brewing Co. And their new Brau Cave features two golf simulators, pool tables, darts, and TVs for watching all the ball sports at once. Marshall, braubeer.com, 507-929-2337

[LAKELAND]

To celebrate the shortest day of the year, Belwin Conservancy is lighting up the longest night. The Winter Solstice Bonfire is a yearly tradition that includes a toasty roarer, Irish music, guided night hikes, cider, and cookies. Dec. 20. Afton, belwin.org, 651-436-5189

GEAR MADE HERE

Snowsuit up, Minnesota! For all those aforementioned cold-weather excur- sions, these local outfitters have gear and goods for the whole fam.

Would it be an outfitters roundup without Duluth Trading Co. and Duluth Pack?! duluthtrading.com, 218-481-7580; duluthpack.com, 218-722-3898

Duluth’s Frost River is ensuring we never have a backpack blowout again, centering on durable bags from purses to duffels and hiking packs. frostriver.com, 1-800-376-7884

A stone’s throw from the Big Blue, Lake Superior Trading Post is a double-decker doozy of souvenirs, outdoor essentials, and lake-centric apparel. Grand Marais, lakesuperiortradingpost.com, 218-387-2020

Wintergreen Northern Wear is polar vortex–ready. It started when Sue Hendrickson-Schurke sewed all the pole-proof outerwear (and 49 dog harnesses!) for explorer Will Steger and his team of six for the first unsupported venture to the Earth’s tippity-top in 1986. Ely, wintergreennorthernwear.com, 1-844-359-6233

Attention, perpetually cold people: Enlightened Equipment makes ultrathin (still mega warm!) “quilts,” packable bedding that can be a sleeping bag or blanket. Winona, enlightenedequipment.com, 507-474-6225

It’s never too early to start dreaming about ice out. Sanborn Canoe Company makes hand-carved painted paddles, artful cribbage boards, and hatchets. Winona, sanborncanoe.com, 507-313-6967

The family behind Tyrol Ski and Sports knows their snow-sentials, selling winter wear and offering gear rentals. Rochester, tyrolskishop.com, 507-288-1683

HOT STUFF

Forget warming houses! This is the ultimate drinkable, edible guide to the things your soul craves when the weather turns frightful. Start here on empty.

NORTHEASTERN

Is there actual conversation inside OMC Smokehouse, or is it just a chorus of mmmm? Make the drive for the beef-fat fries, stay for the loaded mac ’n’ cheese (brisket, bacon, onion, mushrooms— mmmm). Duluth, omcsmokehouse.com, 218-606-1611

We dare you not to love the fall menu at Dream Cloud Coffee Roasters, which includes apple chai, sweet potato pie latte, and spicy drinking chocolate. Duluth, dreamcloudcoffeeroasters.com

The after-dinner drinks at Fitger’s Boat Club are where it’s at. Salted caramel nut roll, chai hot toddy, espressotini— who says you need dinner first? Duluth, boatclubrestaurant.com, 218-727-4880

NORTHWESTERN

Opened in a former Dunn Brothers space in August, The Coffee District is a modern aqua-themed Bemidji caffeinating hole. It feels like we should try all six flavors of grilled cheese with a specialty latte. thecoffeedistrict.squarespace.com, 218-444-5252

CENTRAL

Neon signs, cement floors, and black accents—Kinder Coffee Lab is determined to chic up your Insta feed. St. Cloud, kindercoffeelab.com, 320-330-9807

Minnesota’s original craft distiller, Panther Distillery, thinks you can add whiskey to almost anything—and we can’t disagree: Whiskey cider, whiskey cocoa, maple whiskey sour, campfire sour, and iced whiskey coffee are waiting for you. Osakis, pantherdistillery.com, 320-760-5002

The Edge Co. is half boho boutique and half modern coffee shop—think leather sofa and black-clad fireplace. This sip-’n’-shop experience is the thing our Saturdays have been missing. Alexandria, shoptheedgeco.com, 320-460-8880

OK, it’s frosty outside, but Loco Espress Coffee House and Boutique embraces the chill with a cold brew flight. For caffeine-free crazies, the Thin Mint Loco Coco is hot cocoa with peppermint tea, maple syrup, sea salt, and whipped cream, and there’s a hot cider with caramel and whipped cream. Brainerd, locoespress.com, 218-330-4335

We have to road-trip just to sip hot cocktails at Main Street Ale House: hot buttered rum; a pumpkin spice latte spiked with vanilla vodka and Kahlúa; and a fall sangria with pumpkin chai cider, pinot grigio, and ginger beer. Nisswa, mainstreetnisswa.com, 218-961-6724

SOUTHERN

That milk-and-espresso swirl has never looked so good as at River Rock Coffee and Tea, a quaint pair of southern-Minny coffee shops that serve iced drinks in clear branded glasses. St. Peter, 507-931-1540, and Mankato, 507- 720-0223, rrcoffee.com

We thought dark coffee beer didn’t need another flavor, but turns out it does: Coffee and Cardamom Star City small-batch imperial stout at LocAle Brewing Co. is just what Mother Nature ordered. Mankato, localebrew.com, 507-779-7082

Java River Coffee Shop is flanked by aged brick and serves up desserts and lunches that taste like Mama’s cooking—as only a small-town haunt can. Montevideo, javarivercoffeeshop.square.site, 320-321-1555

Three old friends banded together to sustainably refurbish an old Faribault building (think: reusing flooring as the ceiling, windows as walls, and joists as the bar). The product is a warm wood-clad hug from 10,000 Drops Craft Distillers. 10000drops.com, 507-838-0383

There’s blue cheese fondue at Bleu Duck Kitchen that feels like something we must eat before the snow melts. Rochester, bleuduckkitchen.com, 507-258-4663

Aquí means “here” in Spanish, and all we can say is get yourself HERE. Merging two of our dearest loves—plants and coffee—Café Aquí is a mod and geometric oasis within Sargent’s garden shop. Rochester, aqui.coffee, 507-884-8376

The industrial aesthetic of Café Steam’s three Rochester locations balances their warm caffeine comfort. steam.coffee

FIVE COOL CLASSES FOR THE COLD-AVERSE

Time to get outside! Of our comfort zones, that is. From DIY-ing a charcuterie board to stratospheric fitness and coffee culture, will the cold away by tapping into knowledge pools you never knew existed.

[REDWOOD FALLS]

Get Arranging @ Blossom Town

One way to perk up your outpost amid the frosty clutches of December (and beyond)? The outdoor planter, an instant porch (or stoop!) elevator. Its layered, fragrant evergreens paired with birch poles and pops of berry hues are particularly striking against a winter landscape. Blossom Town, a family owned and operated floral biz located in the reaches of the Minnesota River Valley, offers private Winter Porch Pot Workshops—to green away the winter blues. Just grab your garden gloves, a gaggle of friends, and go! Groups can be as small as five and as large as 10. blossomtown.com, 507-637-2943

[ST. CLOUD]

Get Fancifully Fit @ Cirque Du Cloud

You don’t have to give up your life to join the circus—you can just go to Cirque Du Cloud and whirl your life around and upside down. Aerial arts is a high-flying workout, fusing together stretches, posture work, and Pilates-style moves. “This is for hobbyists, for people with no fitness experience, for people who want to develop strength,” says owner Jordan Groom. Try gravity-defying bungees, angel drops, and more. Classes are at Hybrid Farm, Sundays and Wednesdays. cirqueducloud.com, 832-316-1102

[KASSON]

Get Roasting @ Trail Creek Coffee Roasters

Certain tangibles are nonnegotiable—like our daily cup. While we amble into the kitchen for our fix every morning, our inner barista has likely, at some point, had a hankering to learn more about froth, flavor, and finish. Enter: Trail Creek Coffee Roasters, a small-batch specialty coffee roastery with a passion for community, connection, and global impact. Owners Jim and Crystal Whitmarsh offer private Roasting 101 classes by appointment out of their quaint roastery. A hands-on, full sensory experience, each bean sesh covers the roasting process, roast levels, physical and chemical changes that occur during the process, and more. trailcreekcoffeeroasters.com, 507-951-7251

[DULUTH]

Get Brewing @ Mix Cosmetiques

Duluth mainstay Mix Cosmetiques is rolling out a handful of kombucha brewing classes this January, just in time to swap out the suds for something healthier (yet still bubbly!). Founder Lanae Rhoads has been spreading the booch-brewing gospel for over 10 years. “I found myself spending $7 a day on kombucha at the grocery store!” she says. In addition to teaching a tableau of DIY makeup classes, she regularly holds classes where the kombucha-curious leave with a take-home bottle, a scoby (the starter), and the know-how to make eight to 10 different flavors. mixcosmetiques.com, 206-694-9170

[TWIN CITIES]

Get Shellacking @ Pour Your Own Epoxy

It’s officially charcuterie season, but what good is that without a bomb board to show off your most creative, mouth-watering meat/cheese/veg displays? Time to table (ha!) the bamboo cutting boards in favor of something a little sturdier and a lot easier on the eyes. In this class, participants can choose to epoxy a charcuterie board or lazy Susan and select their own color scheme. Boards are made with black walnut and other various hardwoods. Classes last 90 minutes; final projects will be returned to the location of the class within two weeks for pickup (just in time for the holidays!). pouryourownepoxy.com, 715-318-3737

This article originally appeared in the December 2022 issue of Mpls.St.Paul Magazine.

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